We have two day-trips planned out of Bamberg: the historic city of Wurzburg, and the medieval gem Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Since today looked like being clear, and the forecast for tomorrow less promising, we opted to take the picturesque one first and right after breakfast, headed out for Rothenburg.
Every guidebook tells how Rothenburg was stripped and looted during the Thirty-Years War (1618-1648, and if you remember as little about it as we do, you can click that link). This changed it from a bustling commercial city to a poor backwater. So it remained until the 19th-century Romantic movement discovered it—full of 300-year-old half-timbered buildings and with its entire city wall intact—and converted it into a tourist Destination with a capital D.
Rothenburg today deals with a flood of tourists with usual German competence. As you approach the town the street signs clearly direct you to the four major Parking areas. We parked and approached the walls.
Following Earl's directions, we started walking partway around the wall.
After a partial circuit we descended some rather steep stairs to the street.
Mind your head.
First things first! We had to sample the local pastry specialty, Schneeballen (snowballs).
To our surprise they turn out to be made of a thin sheet of a cookie dough, crumpled into a ball and deep-fried. The basic schneeball is dusted with powdered sugar, but there are a variety of other treatments. We got one plain and one choc-almond. They prove to be crispy, and to shatter and spread sugar everywhere.
OK, on to serious touristing. We looked at the Rathaus,
where we went through the fairly entertaining local history museum, which had lots of original weapons (swords, flintlock rifles) and costumes from the 1630s.
Now we went to Jacobkirche (yakob keerkuh), or St. James's, where we looked at two altar-pieces. The main one features the apostles, including, amusingly, one who is shown wearing spectacles,
as well as a very attractive female figure. (Holding a jar and a dish; who is she?)
The big deal at this church is another altar-piece, a Last Supper by Tilman Reimanschneider (remember him from yesterday?). This is an amazing piece of wood-carving.
The intricate detail, and the sensitivity of the figures, are just awesome.
Almost as amazing, in its own quiet way, is a Tanzanian carving tucked between two pillars. Called the Christmas Boat, it is carved from a single log of ebony.
Made in the 1990s by a sister church.
We stopped in at a Doll and Toy museum, where we skimmed a large and varied collection of dolls and doll houses and furniture.
There were some amazing miniature objects in this collection. Here is a whole suite of rococo furniture. Note the giant hand on the right.
We walked around the walls some more, and from a peaceful garden got a wide view of central Rothenburg.
Driving home we talked about how we'd heard more American voices today than at any time in the past four weeks. We spoke to a few Americans while in a cafe. It appears that every American tour with a few days in Germany hits Rothenburg to give people a quick taste of half-timber quaintness and city wall. The place is full of tourists, and (it seemed to us) only tourists. Tourism is its one industry, and every shop is aimed at selling stuff a tourist might take home. This makes it feel like a museum or an amusement park.
In our opinion, any tourist who wants a taste of a historic Altstadt would do far, far better to go to Bamberg or Tubingen. Both have old town centers that are at least as charming and historic as Rothenburg's. And prettier; Rothenburg has nothing to compare to the Alte Rathaus in Bamberg (seen yesterday).
The main thing is, Bamberg and Tubingen are both live cities with modern populations at work on business and trade and learning. Sure, both have lots of tourists sloshing through, but they have other things going on, and a wide variety of stores and services, and lots more good restaurants.
Anyway. Tomorrow, Wurzburg.
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